Group travels are like wine and friends

Our shared life experiences, like those we may have during group travels, have a special place in our hearts, they have their own little house there.

They are so special that to access to those memories in full we will need the set of keys we own together with those folks we shared the moments.

We can even remember those moments by ourselves, revive all the details in the comfort of our homes, post the pictures in a blog or tell about those magnificent adventures to friends that will listen all the words we will say … but it will never be the same, there will be always something missing.

However it only takes a couple of seconds after joining our adventure buddies and the keys will open all the doors of the house and the sun will fulfill our hearts with joy and laughter.

A good wine will always be a good wine but it gets much better when shared with friends.

Carpe diem.

David Monteiro

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Visiting Portugal - where to go, what to visit?

Where to go, what to do when visiting Portugal?

I believe that this must be the question I answer more often in this context.

Of course the answer will always depend on who is asking, not everyone enjoy doing the same things.

Not only will depend on individual preferences but also depends on the time and money you have available to spend in this country.

My reply could be very different for those who want to come to Portugal for walking vacations or for those who want to come to Portugal to spend some time on the beach or visiting museums.

However, I will try to simplify the idea and try to draw a plan to the visitor who wants to come to Portugal have active vacation but not necessarily for walking in the countryside. Will be a plan for a visitor who values visiting areas with some History, who values tasting the cuisine and local wines and is also interested on cultural differences.

I will also consider that this visitor prefers to see the sites in a more relaxing way rather than jumping from site to site in a frenetic race ... more quality instead of quantity.

In relation to the time I will consider two possibilities: 7 days and 14 days.

For any of the options I find it fascinating to do the trip from North to South, in which the city of arrival will be Porto and Lisbon the departure city where there are more flight connections with the rest of the world.

7 days: 2-Porto; 1-Guimarães; 1-Fátima/Óbidos; 2-Lisbon; 1-Sintra/Cascais

14 days: 2-Porto; 1-Guimarães; 1-Viana do Castelo; 1-Pinhão (Douro Valley); 2-Coimbra/Fatima/Óbidos; 3-Lisbon; 2-Évora and surroundings; 1-Sintra/Cascais; 1-Setúbal/Tróia/Arrábida

Each of these sites has a remarkable History, different customs and so typical gastronomy and wines to accompany and I will write about these places on this blog.

Come with me to meet Portugal.

David Monteiro

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Salto do Cabrito, a handsome waterfall, São Miguel, Azores

One cannot imagine this walk’s beauty before you did it. Its name is Salto do Cabrito, near Ribeira Grande at São Miguel, Azores.

The trail is marked to be done in the opposite way than the one I usually do it but I have my reasons. So, start walking at Caldeiras da Ribeira Grande where you can find some fumaroles making bubbles on the outdoor water tanks you can find there is a pleasant way of start this adventure.

I find quite annoying walking on the tar roads. However the surroundings are so lovely that it really doesn’t matter … or maybe I say so because I love the Azores.

Anyway, by the time you arrive at the small electric plant you will have to climb some stairs to walk on a platform on top of some big tubes/pipes.

Well, you can find it odd but you will love it. It will allow you to have a top bottom prespective that will be even better inside of a small canyon you will have to cross.

At the end of the canyon you will find a handsome waterfall called Salto do Cabrito “little goat’s jump”.

A gorgeous place.

David Monteiro

Location: Caldeiras, Ribeira Grande, São Miguel, Azores

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Cape Roca - The westernmost point of Europe's mainland.

Have you ever been to the Europe's mainland westernmost point?

Quite close to Lisbon you will find some trails along the sea coast that will give you the sensation of “I’m at the end of Europe” and, in fact,  you are at the westernmost point of Europe mainland, the Cape Roca (38°46’49.59″N   9°29’56.19″W).

From the Cape Roca, or arriving here, you will find many walking trails and on each one with different kind of photo spots or interesting things to see.

Coming from the south you can find a XVII century fortress named Forte do Guincho, one of several military buildings that were part of the Portuguese coastal defensive line built after the revolution of Dec’1640 called “Restauração da Independência” – restoration of the independence.

An interesting flower to look for and to care for, is the Armeria pseudarmeria. This species is at risk of extinction both because tourists pick them up due to its beauty during blooming and also because it only grows along these cliffs, which is quite of a restricted area. Photo from PNSC (Parque Nacional Sintra-Cascais – Natural Park Sintra-Cascais).

Granite is king on this area, offering us magnificent cliffs often with more than 150m/492ft (+/-) high and with standalone rocks that looks like guardians of the coast, always searching for the enemy boats at the horizon.

The sun sets at the west so one can take amazing sunset photos from the Cape Roca or very impressive photographs of the waves hitting the rocks.

I usually come here with Portuguese guests that will participate in mountain hiking tours to get to know them better prepared while they walk the trail on the map posted here. Depending of what particular trail you will choose, you can have an easy or difficult trail.

Have fun,

David Monteiro

Location: Cape Roca, Portugal

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Accessing to the right photo spots for photography in Lisbon

For a traveler photographer, accessing to the right spots to shoot is often a problem for many reasons and in Lisbon that it is not different.

It starts by needing to know where the place is and to how get there but is it doesn’t end here. Occasionally, a different angle looks like a new approach in fact new because there are not many photos or none taken from that particular location and we wonder why.

Personal safety and equipment safety are concerns that one have to bear in mind and some locations are not the best places to go with expensive photography equipment.

Also there is the “time” constraint. So many places to go and so little time to spend.

As a local photographer I’m offering tours for photographers depending on their specific or general interests.

If you are spending a couple of days in Lisbon or in the surroundings as you may well know, that is not too much time to photograph so you better take the most of it.

Give me a call.

David Monteiro

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River Bestança, beyond the Douro Valley wine region - Portugal

The Douro Valley wine region is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world.

Is was established in 1756 by Marquis de Pombal, the Portugal's prime minister during the time of the king D. José I.

In the previous post I described a walking tour trail I lead once in a while that takes place in the demarcated wine region. It's a wonderful place where you can see all the landscape covered with vineyards.

However the demarcated region does not cover completely the Douro Valley and there is a part of the valley that was not "affected" by the rules of the demarcated region and the landscape is totally different, although being so close to each other.

The river Bestança valley is a hidden jewel even for Portuguese people. Here the trails are old paths that were used by farmers to access to their farming lands or where they still go with their cattle.

In the river Bestança Valley you can find both the lifestyle of 100 years ago but also quite interesting hotels, like the case of Hotel Porto Antigo or manor houses that are totally equipped to receive guests.

Diversity is probably one of the strongest characteristics of the Portuguese territory where one do not have to go too far to be in a completely different scenario.

Enjoy.

David Monteiro

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Walking the Congost de Mont-rebei, halfway to the Pyrenees - Spain

Nothing better like a nice walk to stretch your legs during a long van transfer, even better if is the Congost de Mont-rebei.

After a long flight there is nothing worse than being seated in a car for 4 hours driving to doesn't matter where. But that is what can happen when you are travelling to the Pyrenees after landing at the Barcelona Airport if you don't have a backup plan.

Of course you can fly to a closer airport like Huesca or Zaragoza. However there are not many flights to those airports and at the end it can take more time than getting there by car.

So, what to do to, at least to soften the long car ride? The answer is to stop somewhere nice for a walk and enjoy the place and instead of a long drive you just add an extra interesting day.

I was searching for a walk halfway to the Pyrenees because of the above reasons and this place caught my attention, is the Congost de Mont-rebei.

The Congost de Mont-rebei is the narrowest canyon of the river Noguera Ribagorzana, right in between the provinces of Huesca and Lleida, Spain.

Is located in a quite remote hills and until the beginning of the XX century there was no roads to connect some local villages or with the existing roads it was a very long ride. So, in 1912 a walking trail was built in the canyon to connect Corçà to Alsamora and other tinny little villages.

Later a river dam was also built and the first trail was flooded (you can see that in one of the photos) and was needed to built a new trail again but now in a higher altitude. In 1984 the second walking trail was finished allowing the people to cross from one side to the other.

More recently an iron bridge and some catwalks were added.

The trail (red line) is not too far from Tremp, has 13 Km to each side without relevant elevation gain. Obviously you can do a shorter distance because the most beautiful part of the trail is  the canyon and it goes until the first 8 Km.

Allow me to suggest you to take a sandwich or something else to bite, you will find a perfect place to do it, like my colleague in the photo.

Have fun.

David Monteiro

Location: Tremp, Spain

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Climbing our way up to Canchal de la Ceja - Spain

The day was perfect to climb up to Canchal de la Ceja. The ice was hard, the snow was very firm and the sun was shining ... just perfect.

Sometimes is just a question of luck, some other times it's a result of a good planning but when you get a little of both you might get the best of all, like the day we spent at Laguna del Duque, not too far from Salamanca.

The access to the parking area is some how bizarre because you will need to remove an apparently locked chain that makes you wonder if one day you will arrive there and find it really impossible to open.

At Solana de Ávila you will find a narrow road that will lead you to the weirdest parking area and from here facing the dam wall, on your left you will find a trail, that's the one.

Please be aware that on the right side of the dam wall there's a hut you can use in case of emergency.

Usually I do a trail on the right side walking up to the summit, is a nice trail, not too difficult at all, accessible to most of the walkers.

On that day we wanted a more "vertical" wall so the left trail would suite us much better, a more technical way offering a moderate challenge.

The summit, Canchal de la Ceja is the highest point of the "Sierra de Bejar y Candelário" with 2428m and climbing up here via the Laguna del Duque is the most challenging way.

The day started quite foggy and I was not very enthusiastic but by around 10 am the sun came out and the day just turned to be perfect.

It was such a nice that I will repeat it.

Who will join me?

David Monteiro

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Are you planning to visit Lisbon in one day?

Are you planning to visit Lisbon in one day? 

You know the answer: that is impossible. However, what to do when a day is all the time we have to get to know Lisbon? Of course we will have to make the most of the available time.

I will leave here my suggestions on how to divide the time during a one-day visit to the city and the best way to structure my suggestions is to divide the visit in: morning, afternoon and after dinner.

In this post I will not include meals or lodgings because I will write about hotels and restaurants later.

Morning

- One monument visit: Jerónimos Monastery - this monastery is classified as UNESCO World Heritage Site, was built by King Manuel I in 1502 and it took about 100 years to be built. Is the maximum exponent of Manueline architecture, also known as the Portuguese Baroque.

- One tasting: Pastéis de Belém - as a result of the Liberal Revolution of 1820, in 1834 the convents and monasteries were closed. Was in this context that someone went to a sugar refinery close to the Jerónimos Monastery and put a few cookies on sale, these cookies are today known as the "Pastéis de Belém" and they must be the better worldwide known Portuguese sweets.

- The first walk: Baixa and Chiado - are two typical neighborhoods of the city and good representatives of the society of 18th and 19th centuries. Start by the view from the Viewpoint of São Pedro de Alcântara and walk downhill until the Camões Square and after this walk along the Garrett Street and end at Rossio. It is certainly a beautiful journey through Portuguese Romanticism and also a good opportunity to visit Baixa (downtown), the neighborhood that was built after the great earthquake of 1755.

- The second walk: Alfama and São Jorge Castle - Alfama is a medieval district and has been inhabited since the foundation of the city so it is here that we can find the oldest buildings in the city. Walking through the narrow streets of Alfama and observing its inhabitants is to know the typical Lisbon. Start your walk at the São Jorge castle and hence find the Miradouro das Portas do Sol from where we can see the roofs of Alfama, the quarter where we will walk until Terreiro do Paço.

Note: using a city map will help you making sense of all this names I’m mentioning.

Afternoon

Having walked in the morning, for the afternoon I will suggest more cultural moments for the afternoon, so I will propose a Museum and the Oceanarium visits.

- Museum of the City: it was easy to propose a visit to the Museum of Ancient Art (Museu de Arte Antiga), which is the most common suggestion you will find in terms of visits to museums. However, I believe that this Museum, being an excellent Museum, does not offer something unique to those visiting Lisbon, here you will find excellent pieces that could be in any major European Museum but not necessarily Portuguese pieces. So I will propose a visit to the City Museum, a small museum, whose collection is not something extraordinary but has the particularity of being a very nice space and the collection is Portuguese, this is a truly Portuguese space.

- Oceanarium: is the second largest aquarium in the world which is by itself a sign of being something that you can hardly see elsewhere and has an extensive collection of marine creatures. It is located at Parque das Nações, which is an ideal area for a late afternoon beer and to end the active day.

After dinner

The visit to the city will not be complete without a stroll through the area of nightlife where you can have a drink and hear some music.

Of course there are several areas in the city where this may happen but without complicating too much the explanation I would say that is in the Bairro Alto where you can find more diversity of bars.

Personally I love bar “Pavilhão Chinês" (Chinese Pavilion), one of the most beautiful bars I know.

Join the fun in Lisbon.

David Monteiro

Please check the original article at my blog in Wordpress

The Garrano Horse at Gerês National Park, Portugal

Wild horses in Portugal at Gerês National Park.

In a territory with such ancient boundaries, such as Portugal, and where the human presence is almost everywhere, there are not so frequent wildlife sightings and when that happens, as it was in this case, it is always an exciting moment.

Garrano is a breed of Iberian horses. We often tend to refer them as being Portuguese but the fact is that the animal knows no boundaries and they can be seen both on the Portuguese side and on the Spanish side.

On the Spanish side the Gerês (Gerês National Park) is called Xures, very similar.

These are horses of small stature, wrongly often referred to as ponies, adapted to the harsh conditions of the Gerês and with working horse characteristics.

It's difficult to find the word to express how much I love seeing these free animals in the wild.

They are no longer in danger of extinction as once they were, it is a sign that there is hope in the future of coexistence between humans and wildlife.

This was a moment to remember.

David Monteiro

Please check the original article at my blog in Wordpress

How to divide the time to spend nine days visiting the Azores?

The Azores is an archipelago of the Portuguese territory constituted by nine islands and these islands are organized in three groups accordingly with their relative position and proximity: Oriental Group, Central Group and Occidental Group.

Oriental Group: Santa Maria Island and São Miguel Island;
Central Group: Pico Island, São Jorge Island, Faial Island, Graciosa Island and Terceira Island
Occidental Group: Flores Island and Corvo Island.

There are lot’s of websites where you can retrieve geographical information about the Azores so I won’t spend much time on this subject. Also to know its geographic position you can go to Google Maps.

In spite the Azores being part of Portugal, is totally different from the mainland and is far from sufficient to say that you will find there a unique environment, is like visiting a different country but with same language although with specific accent.

In between the several Azorean islands you will also find huge differences. While some islands are green, with dozen of lakes and waterfalls, others gives you dark landscapes colors with impressive mountains.

These differences in between islands are not only in the landscape but also in their  traditions and ways of being. At São Miguel island you will find a considerable size island, all green and quite exuberant, with an architecture based on black and white buildings and,on the other hand, just to give an example, Pico island is dark and dry because of the volcanic dark stone and the locals love to paint their dark stone houses doors with red colour … the result is fantastic.

With nine islands and also considering the difficulties of access to some of them once in a while due to weather conditions, is totally impossible to visit them all in one week, at least it doesn’t worth your while to do it like that.

If you’re planning a one week tour, or 9 days for that matter, you will need to make choices regarding to what islands to visit.

In this post I will focus myself in a 9 days tour but later I will write another post considering a two weeks tour and these two possibilities will be very different.

Naturally that the answer will be that this will depend on your personal preferences. However, in case you are more willing to go trekking the answer will be to go visiting islands like Flores or São Jorge but if you are more of a general tourist maybe plan to spend more time at São Miguel and Terceira.

For the sake of the explanation I will divide the people that are interested in visiting the Azores in two big groups knowing that I’m taking the chance of leaving many possibilities out of this division:

Relaxed Group - Those that are more like a general tourist. Want some cultural activities, not too deep, some walks, not to far or not taking too much time, take some pictures, have some relaxation moments but get to know the place.

Active Group - Those that are interested in knowing the place while doing some physical activities like walking, maybe trekking, or scuba diving, photography, sea kayaking, etc, although are also interested in getting to know the place.

Note that, things like local food and wine tasting, getting to know people and some relaxing are included in both groups, naturally.

I know that splitting the people in two groups like this is probably not even fair but this is a blog post not a scientific study … give me a break.

So, the question is now “How to divide the time to spend nine days visiting the Azores?”

Please bear in mind that I don’t like to travel with too much tide schedules or be all day long rush rush but I also need to feel that I’m taking the most of my time in a balanced way. What is good for me is not necessarily the best for you so you will do your own decisions.

Relaxed Group: mix tour with some cultural activities, some photo opp’s and some walks

3 days at São Miguel island + 2 days at Pico island + 1 day at São Jorge island + 3 days at Terceira island

Active Group: plenty of opportunities for walking, scuba diving, serious photography, surf, rock climbing etc - two possibilities

3 days at São Miguel island + 2 days at Pico island + 2 days at São Jorge island + 2 days at Terceira island

or

3 days at São Miguel island + 3 days at Flores island + 2 days at Pico island + 1 day at São Jorge island

This is only an idea on how to split time in between islands, you will decide what is best for you.

The Azores is in my short list of favourite destinations, I’ve been travelling there for many years and I know deeply all the islands.

There are infinite possibilities to do a wide variety of activities like walking, photographing, lay down on the beach, jumping from cliffs, cultural visits, you name it.

Is really difficult to select some islands to visit in one week, leaving out of the choice so many other wonderful places but this is real life with its limitations of time and money.

In this post I did not consider the logistic difficulties you can find when booking flights to the Azores, that will always depends of where do you come from. Although I consider how hard/easy is to move from one island to the other also taking into account how far in time are they from each other.

Later I will write a series of posts regarding each island and with some ideas of what can be done here and there adding some information to what can be already found in the internet. Also I will also explain the reasons for the above selections.

Have fun,

David Monteiro

Please check the original article at my blog in Wordpress

Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra, San Sebastian, Spain

San Sebastian, or Donostia in Basque, is a synonymous of a glamorous lifestyle in which the “Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra” plays a quite important role.

Like in many other coastal towns, the origin of San Sebastian is related with fishing activities and the “La Concha” bay acting as a natural safe haven for traditional local fishing boats ultimately explains the success and prosperity of the town.

However, when we look around we mostly see buildings dated after the 1800’s and one can wonder why.

The reason, although not obvious, is not rare on this part of the world. After a siege that took place in 1813, where the combined Portuguese and English troops successfully fought against the Napoleon army, the city was almost completely destroyed by the winners.

As you can imagine, San Sebastian had to be rebuilt after that sad event.

It also happen that the Queen Maria Cristina had to spend some time in the city recommended by her doctor due to her health condition.

The queen enjoyed so much the town that started to spend more time around here and that alone attracted other aristocratic members and European wealthy people in general.

Was in this context that the building that today we know as the “Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra” was constructed in the middle of the XIX century.

Initially was a private own palace and at a certain moment became an hospital, during one of the Carlistas wars.

During the beginning of the XX century was adapted to become an hotel.

Today we can find a hotel with an elegant classic decoration although very modern in all the ways you can think about.

The Hotel had many distinct guests until now. Anyway, in its long list there is one that, in my opinion, stands out and completely fits the hotel’s environment, I’m referring to the famous and mysterious spy Mata Hari.

The hotel rooms are very elegant and classy, the restaurant has an excellent service with very nice quality/price relation in what concerns dinner and lunches. Breakfast here is a treat, the proper way to start your day.

The best of the hotel is the their staff, no doubt about it.

In these years I’ve been staying here with guests, as you can imagine, many situations occurred that I needed their help … in fact at the end is always the guest that has the need and the hotel staff always faced the problems with a tender smile and a eager to help.

If you stayed in this hotel please let me know your opinion. My opinion is clear, is an excellent hotel.

David Monteiro

Please check the original article at my blog in Wordpress